A Finely Stitched Production

Intimate Apparel – Northlight Theatre

It’s 1905 in Lower Manhattan, and a shy African-American woman named Esther is busy working at her sewing machine. In the background we hear the muted strains of ragtime coming from downstairs, where a party is in progress. But Esther doesn’t have time for parties or an interest in dancing the cakewalk.  She’s a plain, hardworking, lonely, middle-age woman, who’s been living the past 18 years in Mrs. Dickson’s boarding house for women. Barely making ends meet, Esther designs and creates exquisite, finely stitched undergarments for ladies of all races and social standings. The corsets and camisoles are made from the delicate silks and satins that Esther purchases from kindly Mr. Marks, an Hasidic fabric merchant, with whom she has a close business relation and friendship. 

Every day is the same for Esther, with most of her time spent at her Singer sewing machine, sometimes passing a few moments with motherly Mrs. Dickson, or with her favorite clothing customers, socialite Mrs. Van Buren and amiable prostitute, Mayme. Then a friend from church notices Esther’s solitariness and, unbeknownst to her, has sent her address to George Armstrong, a handsome Caribbean man working on the Panama Canal. They suggest to George that he should correspond with the unmarried woman. Esther is surprised to receive his first letter, but intrigued. Being illiterate, Esther asks her friends to both read her George’s letters and help her write back to him. Eventually a long-distance romance develops between the couple, although they’ve never actually seen each other.

When George Armstrong finally makes his way to New York the couple has planned to marry when they meet. Esther has sewn her own wedding gown and she looks beautiful. But, following the wedding night, Esther discovers that her husband isn’t the kind, gentle man she thought she knew. To top it off, Esther had been saving her hard-earned money, hoping to one day open a beauty shop for black women. She hid her cache, sewing it into her quilt. When George discovers that his new wife has a secret fortune, he takes Esther’s savings and leaves her, squandering the money on liquor and women. When Esther discovers the truth she realizes the mistake she’s made and sets out to rectify her situation.

The only woman to have twice won the Pulitzer Prize for Drama, Lynn Nottage’s plays are beautiful stories filled with memorable characters and plenty of heart and soul. Her two prize-winning plays include “Ruined” and “Sweat,” but this gifted, prolific playwright has written many other dramas about the black experience. Ms Nottage based “Intimate Apparel” upon the sketchy information she had about her great-grandparents. She entwines their tale amidst the hidden stories of New York’s black population during the early 20th century. In this play, Lynn Nottage seems to imply that, like the stories Mr. Marks shares with Esther about each bolt of fabric that he sells, there’s an intriguing story behind each of us.

This production is directed with grace, dignity and class by Tasia A. Jones. While focusing this captivating play on Esther, Ms Jones has devoted equal time helping us understand each of the other interesting supporting characters who touch Esther’s life. Her production unfolds upon Scott Penner’s imaginative set design that, at first glance, appear to be a single location. But, as the scenes shift, the set reveals itself as an arena for several different locales. The effect is artistic and brilliant, eliminating the time-consuming need for set changes. Raquel Adorno has designed and created a beautiful  wardrobe of stunning period costumes, in particular the lovely intimate apparel Esther creates, along with the stunning silk smoking jacket, that becomes an important plot device. The only problem is that I noticed the hem of several costumes coming apart and the trim on Mayme’s gorgeous gold gown falling off. In a play that’s about meticulous sewing, this is a serious faux pas. 

This entire cast is stellar. It’s been a while, but the gifted Mildred Marie Langford finally returns to Northlight Theatre as Esther. She was last seen here in “A Civil War Christmas,” but is remembered for her magnificent performances in Steppenwolf’s “The Crucible” and “Animal Farm,” and Timeline’s “A Raisin in the Sun” and “In Darfur.” She brings goodness, strength and determination to her portrayal of an independent woman whose wants and needs are simple. When she dares to give in to some romance Esther experiences great disappointment, but her focus and determination help her.

Thanks to some excellent dialect coaching by Kathy Logelin, Yao Dogbie’s portrayal of Caribbean-born George Armstrong has an authentic sound. The pompous grandstanding and swagger this actor brings to his role, tempered with a tenderness that belies the truth of his character, makes Dogbie’s portrayal solid and honest. (On May 1st, Al’Jaleel McGhee takes over this role for the final two weeks). As Mrs. Dickson, the incomparable Felicia P. Fields bring sincerity, truth and empathy to the motherly landlady of the boarding house. The always excellent Sean Fortunato, who’s impressed in such diverse roles as Miss Trunchbull in “Matilda,” and Malvolio in “Twelfth Night,” is the warmhearted and gentle Mr. Marks. Beautifully played with grace and sensitivity, Mr. Fortunato supplies a bit of sunshine and friendship in Esther’s otherwise mundane life. 

As wealthy Fifth Avenue upper crust customer, Mrs. Van Buren, Rebecca Spence is making her Northlight debut. However, this Jeff Award-winning actress has been enjoyed at almost every Chicago theater, and she brings her signature talent, nuance and layered character portrayal to this role. The always delightful Rashada Dawan, who’s dazzled audiences in shows like “Madagascar,” at Chicago Shakespeare Theatre, and in “Dynamite Divas” and other shows, at Black Ensemble Theater, makes Mayme a definite treat. She creates a joyful character who’s a kind of hooker with a heart, as well as one of Esther’s best friends. 

This is one of Lynn Nottage’s most popular plays, one of the most produced plays in America. The drama premiered in Baltimore in 2003, and then opened Off-Broadway the following year, starring Viola Davis in the leading role. It’s even been adapted into an opera, with music by Ricky Ian Gordon. But this finely stitched dramatic production at Northlight already sings. It’s heartbreaking, yet still has its lighter moments of humor. But, when all is said and done, it’s Nottage’s three-dimensional characters and their intertwined relationships that appear real and remain in our hearts.  

Highly Recommended

Reviewed by Colin Douglas

Presented April 14-May 15 by Northlight Theatre at the North Shore Center for the Performing Arts, 9501 Skokie Blvd., Skokie, IL.

Tickets are available in person at the North Shore box office, by calling 847-673-6300 or by going to www.northlight.org.

Additional information about this and other area productions can be found by visiting www.theatreinchicago.com.